Best silk pla settings ender 3 reddit 230 seems really very high to me. Maybe red is just red and any will do, buy the cheap stuff. 16 layer it fails. 200°C Extruder, 66°C Bed, 0. Welcome to the Ender 3 community, CC3D Silk Copper PLA. I don’t have to change it throughout the print, just keep it there the entire time. Im using silk PLA on an ender 3, and not only is the print lifting from the bed, but there’s some major stringing going on resulting in a rough surface. My issue is that I don’t know what brand of PLA filament to buy, the number of brands and different recommendations is very overwhelming, so I would appreciate is I am using an ender 3 pro with TTYT3D color-changing silk PLA and my slicer is SuperSlicer. the biggest issues is buildup. Was using PLA silk for months without issue, switched to the Jayo pla+ silk and haven’t made a good print yet. I would love to know a good bed and nozzle temperature if any of you have used overture. I've also had small light CFPLA parts fall and not shatter like Silk PLA settings . This is with all colours other than white. The printer is an Ender 3 (non pro), printing head is basically stock except I've swapped the board fan to be the one that is always on and the print head fan turns on while printing (think it's set to layer 2 right now). It's a very weak plastic. Is there a silk filament anyone can Silk PLA is a blend of PLA and elastomers, usually TPU, which is why it need a higher temperature to get good layer adhesion. Let's see when I was printing Christmas ornaments two months ago, I was running it at 205C with a 55C bed. Whether you're looking for guides on calibration, advice on modding, or simply want to share Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, troubleshoot, and explore everything related to 3D printing with the Ender 3. 75 mm) Silk PLA. The multi-color silk is the best I have been able to get from the K1 Max. 1mm layer height. you'll need to find the best retraction to temperature rate. Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. I have cleaned out the extruder and replaced the nozzle. So I bought this amazing colour silk PLA to print some multicolour things Now that it arrived I was so ready to print so I started printing a random design wich came out looking kinda faded I suppose speed was the problem (printed on P1P on standard speed) Now I look it up and it says 30-60mm/s when printing with PLA silk gloss That's quite an ender 3 like speed setting But I Hey guys, I’m brand new to 3D printing and I am buying the ender 3 v2 neo. For display pieces you can't go wrong with any of the Silk PLA plastics. Had a few clogs happen on my Neptune 3 and saw a post recommending a slower print speed with the silk pla. When using the extrude command to load it through the extruder, the filament is Does anyone have like good prusaslicer settings specifically for Silk PLA? I have an ender 3 and i’ve tried to print with Silk PLA at least 10 times. The purple silk is from my tired, old Ender 3 clone. They work, but the sharp points on the gear teeth are rounded over compared to normal PLA. The problem here is that PLA and PLA+ usually are constructed with many different types of materials that are not disclosed to the end user so following the temp guides Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. Read on for the best Ender 3 S1 & S1 Pro Cura slicer profiles. silk likes bed at lower temp - something like 55 degrees or even less (65 for regular pla on same printer) For some reason my profile has lower retraction length for silk pla compared to usual pla (0. Mk 3 handles lower print temps no problem. Bed is level, calibrated extrusion, reduced speed, tried temps from 190 to 225. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, troubleshoot, and explore everything related to 3D printing with the Ender 3. 5 vs 0. Silk has a tendency to grind in my extruder if my retraction is too aggressive, and it "swells" sort of after extrusion. Hi hi , what do we think of this benchy? its my 5th attempt on this print i think , used a Ender 3 v3 SE with orca slicer, the filmanet was dried its a generic one, bed level is supposed to be fine, i have not modified anything on the printer, no addons or settings changed, all is original stock with 200°c on fillament and 60°c in bed. I print ordinary PLA at around 200C, but silk at As the variants of a filament, such as PLA+ and silk PLA, have distinct material compositions (which is why we call them variants), it’s only natural for them to require a specific set of configurations that do not precisely match what you would use for standard PLA. And I can pull the Silk PLA out, and put regular PLA back in, and it prints like a dream. 4mm nozzle. But I had the best results with it. m retraction at 35mm/s. 5 mm/s initial, 0. My retraction settings are currently 6mm @ 30 mm/s (direct drive). Get the Reddit app Scan this and depends on your particular printer. stuff - prints beautifully. I go through a spool of Silk Copper every couple of months. It's typically printed on the side of the roll. I am having issues printing with silk PLA on my Ender 3 Pro. I am using an ender 3 pro with TTYT3D color-changing silk PLA and my slicer is SuperSlicer. The more tried Eryone and did not like it as much. Members Online. I’m using Jayo PLA+ Silk and having a hell of a time with extreme underextrusion and clogging on my Ender 3 Pro. It's easy to print as normal pla, you might want to raise the nozzle temp with 5-10C and depending on your current retraction setting set it to 1-2mm, it is a little more stringy than normal PLA. Noticed that almost all 3 fans are on 100% Should I just open the front chamber door??? I don't wanna risk a clog. I did increase the walls to 4 and top walls (skin) to 4 too. I think I increased my hot end to 215, maybe 220, I think 230 is too far for any pla to extrude reliably because it’s chemical bonds/structure are breaking down at that point (I’m not a chemist). 12mm, "within infill" As the Ender 3 is the most popular 3D printer on the market right now, there are many Ender 3 owners who are looking to quickly find the optimal settings that would work with their printer. Get the Reddit app Scan this Trying to get silk gold PLA dialed in on my Ender 3, but I've been struggling with some stringing issues imgur. But it depends on the PLA, some I print at 190, some at 220. I recommend picking a moderate retraction setting like 5 or 6mm and 30-45mm/s or so and doing a temp tower to see how the retraction diminishes. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, troubleshoot, and explore everything related to 3D printing with the I have some silk PLA I’m loading into my Creality K1, 0. But both prints do have little holes in them from under extrusion. Hope this helps. a community for 1 With that said, here are the best Ender 3 Cura settings: Hot end temperature: 195 degrees C; Bed temperature 60 degrees C; Print speed: 50 mm/s; Layer height: 0. So just do a test print with your normal pla settings first then change if needed. Which makes me thing it isn't a clogged nozzle. 8) I've seen several times So I bought this amazing colour silk PLA to print some multicolour things Now that it arrived I was so ready to print so I started printing a random design wich came out looking kinda faded I suppose speed was the problem (printed on P1P on Hey guys, I’m brand new to 3D printing and I am buying the ender 3 v2 neo. I have levelled the bed using the auto level and have been tweaking my Z offset as best as possible. You want to make sure you've got your temp right (I use 210 which works well for standard and silk PLA for me). Ender3 S1 Simplify3D PLA settings. 8 mm/s normal Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, troubleshoot, and explore everything related to 3D printing with the Ender 3. Using the generic silk pla settings. The only issue I ever had with silk on my v2 was a bit more stringing than usual PLA. Across the many different brands of Silk PLA filament that I print a lot of gears with silk PLA using the generic PLA profile. The best thing I've done so far is to completely shut off the fans. Link to what I bought SETTINGS - I downloaded and looked at all his screenshot settings and picked and chose which I thought would make sense Anyways, I'm curious what settings work best for silk and color changing PLA. Original settings and gcode start/end scripts were copied from the Creality Slicer profile. Printer also sounds like it will shake itself to pieces :) How to solve this: Increase ironing temperature to allow the PLA to melt better and allow a smoother passage of the print head and a smoother bow wave. Share Best settings (slightly improved since picture): 205/60, 0. 4mm nozel, extruder at 220 and bed at 60, speed and retraction settings below. 27mm initial layer, 0. For me eSun Silk PLA is one of the better filaments I've printed with that's given me the least amount of problems. I bought a 3 pack with silk black, copper and light gold PLA+ from Sunlu. Not sure if the temp affects the sheen or silk filaments, but I've noticed in translucent filaments that temp affects transparency. 0, restriction speed 60mm/s, print speed 50mm/s and travel speed 100mm/s. My issue is that I don’t know what brand of PLA filament to buy, the number of brands and different recommendations is very overwhelming, so I would appreciate is Can anyone please share some of their Silk PLA settings for Cura? I am having a tough time with it. Please help Locked post. Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all When the printer is leveled properly and the other settings are correct, all worked. 28 (creality ender 3 with full metal extruder) to -140mm - bedtemp from 60 to 85 (and still a bit warping) nozzle temp still 200 printspeed to 90. Below, you can find the Silk PLA settings that we recommend using with the Ender 3, which are the values that we have arrived at through our testing: Hey after some time and testing the best settings for PLA + is First layer nozzle 235c and other layers at 230c. Filament: SUNLU 3D Printer Filament (1. We already have this. I finally fixed the issue by turning the cooling fan to 100%. Not sure how much it will help but here's some of my settings (I'm using SuperSlicer and Klipper): Temp: 210 (215 first layer) Bed temp: 60 Max volumetric speed: 11mm³/s Retraction: 4. Ive raised the temp of the bed to 85 and lowered the temp of the nozzle to 185 to no avail. Maybe you need matte or silk or whatever else it is for that Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, troubleshoot, and explore everything related to 3D printing with the Ender 3. When the nozzle moves to a new layer or across the print, it deposits a drip of filament that ends up building up as it goes on. I had the same issue after installing an all metal hotend on my Ender 3 Pro. Quarter for scale. We show you the best settings for PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU and how to upgrade for even more! Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. com Open. 230c, 300mm/s speed, 0. Here is an example. I recently bought two spools of Eryone, one is rainbow silk and the other is dark gold silk, and I just seem to have problems with bed adhesion and stringing that I don't seem to get when I I recently bought a roll of copper silk PLA from Overture, and I haven’t been able to complete a single print. Therefore, I am assuming it is a setting on my side. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, troubleshoot, and explore everything related to 3D printing with the Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, troubleshoot, and explore everything related to 3D printing with the Ender 3. I haven't tried the light gold but The Ender 3 gives you a lot of filament choices. 5mm, 60 retract 40 unretract Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. I love this stuff, gonna try the bronze next (copper was a little TOO orange for my liking). Print speed 30mm/s. It doesn't happen that much for me with regular PLA, and I can almost always just tune the settings to make it stop without cancelling the print. On the downwards resonation, it collects too much PLA in the bow wave, which it then deposits on the next upward swing. Go to Print settings > Travel > Enable retraction ON ; Retract at layer change OFF ; Retraction distance=10 mm (5 mm if u're with a direct drive) ; Retraction I haven't used the purple, but I've tried several Overture Silk PLA colors with no differences. It's not a bed Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. It was stringy af until I got a good profile to print with. I'm using the same settings as I used with the sample filament that came with the printer, but the filament isn't sticking to the bed. I have tried multiple manufactures and it is the same with all. 2. Hello all. I should clarify when using hyper pla the results are perfect so it's definitely something to do with the silk. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, troubleshoot, and explore everything related to 3D printing with the Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment. I wanted to do a few mods right away on my machine and liked the purple silk color, but I now realize that using this material might have been a It's been a while and I've since converted to direct drive so I don't have more contemporary settings. In my experience (ymmv, I have bought some really bad PLA before) the Overture CFPLA has better layer adhesion than Silk PLA, and decent stiffness. . This single color CC3D has been nothing but a pain and after a week of tweaking settings, reading up on silk PLA, Running on an Ender 3 S1 Pro at 0. Then I do my whole unclog ritual before reattempting the print. every time i’m either changing temp or some setting but it always seems to fail mid way clogging up. upvotes Ender 3 pro using cura 5. I'm currently burning through a spool of the Inland black PLA. The first thing to Get an ad-free experience with special benefits, and directly support Reddit. Here's a 70% scale Benchy from these settings. It does not matter what the settings are for extraction, combing, or z-hop. Ender 3. I've had great luck with in on my Ender 3 V2, with no major changes from the settings I use for standard PLA from Overture or Hatchbox. Printer: Ender 3 Neo Filament: Creality Red Bronze Silk PLA Let me preface this by saying I am very new to 3D printing. I understand leveling the bed, and have assembled the machine but would be really appreciative if you could point me in the right direction on adjustment, calibration and the best settings. Example: silk PLA spire on dice tower snapped clean at a layer line, spires on CFPLA dice tower held up better on more fragile areas. Hey pla+ and pla silk user here! Nozzle temp of 235! Bed at 60. and yes, my bowden tube is sitting directly on the extruder like it’s supposed to. I never got any good prints with Inland white no matter what I tried. Whether you're looking for guides on calibration, advice on modding, or simply want to share your latest 3D prints on the Ender 3, this subreddit is your go-to hub for support and inspiration. ESun PLA+ was good as well but I Silk PLA and tuning. I just switched to Sunlu PLA since it is considered one of the best and immediately started getting severe stringing. Mikka3D has very nice silk PLA. Not sure if it's the surface friction in the tube, or something about the base resin, but it was clog after clog until I hit 240 on my Ender 3 Pro. There's no "best" setting, it just boils down to your equipment and your I print PLA at 200, bed 60, 40mm/s, I'm using an Ender 3 V2. I've got good prints with silk, but be aware that it might take some time changing settings to get it running reliably. Ender 3 v2 has an issue with power loss recovery, it will physically freeze up any time it writes the data, I could fix it by going into the cura machine settings, and at the custom start gcode, place "M413 S0 ;" See if that helps, it did for me, I broke my head over it but nothing would work, but turned out that was an issue Hi everybody, My wife got me a Ender 3 Pro for my birthday and I have no idea what I am doing. 3 mm layer height, 0. All of my specs like print settings are shown in the pictures included in this post along with a picture of a recent stringing test done with the same settings as the pineapple example. Most of the pla+ I've used (inland) prints at I have had great success with Inland PLA with 205 on the hot end and 60 on the bed. Anyways what's everyone's preferred settings for pla? Silk pla 205/55 3. Best settings for Silk PLA? r/Ender3S1. I'm new to 3d printing, and I just got an Ender 3 Pro and a spool of CC3D Silk PLA in Purple. For what it's worth, silk PLA is, in my experience, harder to print with and more stringy than standard PLA, so this issue isn't one that's unexpected the first few times until you've got it dialed in. After that, I did a bit of tuning, and S3D-setting-specific adjustments. Silk pla should really be little to no difference to normal pla, I print all mine at 210 and 50-60 bed temp depending on temp of the room. It varies between colors, models, and what I want it to look The only other printer I know of with this speed and build volume is the Quidi Xmax 3 but it doesn't have a camera and you have to manually level the bed with paper. 02mm; Retraction Speed: 25 mm/s; Retraction The best temperature, print speed, and retraction settings, among others. I have had many many good prints with the CC3D silk white PLA. So after slicing models with my Ender 3 V 3(You know, the ones that are supposed to do everything for you as far as cal goes) when laying down a first layer it almost looks as though the nozzel is too close causing ugly blobs and such. Community for owners of the Ender 3 S1, Ender 3 S1 Pro, and Ender 3 S1 Plus. Maybe it was just a bad spool, but I will never go back to it. This is with mostly stock settings creality print slicer. My temp setting is 210, retraction distance 4. Had to change: offset -1. Ender 3 Hey all! I’ve had my machine for about 5 months, I started printing silk pla at the basic pla settings and it was going great and then I had an issue with ghosting and other weird issues , so I switched to the silk pla setting and still have had nothing but issues, would love to Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. Ender3V3SE join leave 6,334 readers. Inconsistent filament diameter, poor layer adhesion. 24 users here now. I have an ender 3 v2 and every time I try and print something it stops pulling filament out the nozzle. Silk PLA prints weak and break easily along layer lines. 2 on a 0. The silk PLA prints fine on my S1 and my QIDI machines. AutoModerator • Now come to find out there’s a new fucking setting I’ve Yup. I recently purchased the Ender 3 Neo and have had success with other prints I made using Creality’s White PLA filament. Looking for the best quality PLA filament that I can find (preferably on Amazon then buy the color you need. Finally getting my settings right for Silk PLA. 4 nozzle. The only thing that has made a difference is lowering the print temp down to 180 C; Sunlu recommends 200 - 230 for the regular PLA. None of those techniques has worked with this silk stuff. These settings can be upgraded. 1 , silk pla from Mika3d, 0. Hello, I am printing white overture PLA on the Ender 3 v2, yet my prints are failing unrelentingly. I can typically print ABS, PLA, and PETG fine at 300mm/s but even printing the silk at 40mm/s with the darkwing dad settings and a . Filament wadding up 2. Hello, trying SILK PLA from erryone for the first time. Currently I'm at 55mms and at 215° I kept having the print fail and under extrude after 15 or so layers. get reddit premium. Same with the PRUSA mini. Horrible ringing. Then do a retraction tower at the best temp, maybe 205-210C and see how speeds and distances I've printed a lot with Silk PLA and it is indeed fussy. Since the temp range on the label is 215-230 I'm guessing it's PLA+ and it shows the nice glossy finish that I expect from that type. After a minute or two of printing it jams.
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